Jerusalem on April 5, 2024 - April 6
Briefly to put this post into context: this is still the year of 10/7. There are still hostages (182 days) and an Iranian general was recently killed by the IDF and unfortunately the IDF also killed 7 aid workers with the World Central Kitchen by mistake this week. (I say all that because it seems important now but the way the world is going, it may just be another group of things that happened this week in a year of profound events that have the ability to shape history.) A hell of a time to come to Israel, in other words.
Everyone here is living their lives but it is not like when I was here before. My friend is a typical example. One child in the army, another in an educational vocation adjacent to people in the army. Everyone still eats, hugs, loves, needs to go on with the day to day, but in a place still reeling from the 10/7 atrocities, as well as, to a lesser extent, the world’s derision and dismissive reaction to their pain, they now wait to see if the direct attack from Iran will come in the North, as opposed to the indirect attacks by Iranian funded terrorists groups like Hamas. Everyone carries their guns. Many who had finished their service will be called back if they have not already. In this tiny county everyone has been touched by death. The young people here are different than before. Still brusque but kind, still full of life, but also they are shadowed. Older than young people living in freedom should be.
Stepping back to before my trip, I want to share my response to a loved one that, very reasonably asked me to reconsider coming to Israel. Here is some of my response:
Thank you both for being so loving.
I am going, G-d willing. And I should be safe.
This is hard to describe, because as you both know, I was not born Jewish, but despite that accident of birth, I am 1000% committed to my Jewishness in my soul. Israel is like a home to me and I don’t just support it because it’s the one democracy in the Middle East and a haven for the Jewish people. When I went to Israel the first time, I want you to try to understand that as a Jewish person, to feel what it’s like not to be in the minority in an entire country is truly amazing. A privilege I tried not to take for granted before I converted, but I naturally did. I heard people speaking Hebrew all around me and there’s all kinds of people. People are allowed to be super religious or super gay. There’s people that agree with the government people that protest against it. There’s kosher food and not kosher food. If I was a younger woman I would volunteer to fight for them. But I’m not. If I was a wealthier woman I would go there for longer and help out in a hospital, but I’m not. It’s so important to me to do this little bit. Because just as I am too precious to lose, so is Israel. I have always known that when Isaac and I had children, that because they are Jewish, there would be an entire community in the world that would hate them just for that. To see that hatred on display on TikTok and Instagram with those posts by Hamas on October 7 was a whole other thing. I didn’t really know before because that kind of hate is something that happened in Europe a long time ago. But it has happened now, in our generation. One of my good friends has a daughter is in the army right now. Another friend has two in the army. Isaac went to school with somebody whose son has already been killed. Our friend in our synagogue has a cousin who was taken hostage on 10/7. What I am trying to say is this is not happening to somebody else. This is happening to us. Every time I see an image of Naama Levy, may she be set free soon, G-d willing, being dragged by her hair, I think “Marcella has those exact same sweatpants. She has that same long curly hair.”
What I’m getting as is that is it’s really important to me that I go. Even if it is dangerous. I will be as safe as possible, never alone always with Israelis or with my mission group and our armed guards. And honestly, it feels empowering to be able to do something even if it’s just a little thing.
So that happened and I do not know if they got it but I tried. Being actively pro-Israeli as a progressive American feels like screaming into a void. I feel better for having said my peace. It is difficult that those that could see me seem not to or at worst woke-splain to me how antisemitism is defined by them. The privilege of living in a democracy as I still know Jews on the left and on the right and we can all be friends. I saw similar conversations here in Israel.
But I am jumping ahead.
Thursday morning I set off on my journey arriving in Tel Aviv by morning. After a quick change in the bathroom I set out to meet my dear friend, and apparent celebrity (inside joke, he is a well established comedian), Yisrael Campbell. I took the train into town and it was full of soldiers barely older than my own daughter. When we came upon the site of Jerusalem it took my breath away, as usual, and within a moment before we stopped, I heard a series of clicks: the soldiers loading their ammunition into their guns.
After confusion at my hostel solved by google translate (sort of) I dropped my bag and met Yisrael to go to Medhane Yehuda market. It was as lively as ever. At least a dozen people stopped us to say hello to Yisrael on the way there, in the shuok anod on our way out. Everyone one off duty carries their weapon. We bought some things and I walked him back towards his home. I set about making my usual trek to a kosher McDonalds because in Israel and I can and grew up loving their chicken nuggets. I go back to my hotel to find a young lady was locked out. After hearing her story I let her in.
Deana is a 20 something year old who is here from Orlando for a mission trip as well. Like me she came early to spend the weekend in Jerusalem with friends. Someone from the hostel returned and explained to us why there is no staff here. They had been all set to reopen April 1 but with everything that has happened they assumed no one would come. Of course some of us still did, the bull headed Americans. So he helped us get settled and I got ready for Shabbat. I walked about 30 minutes south to the Baka neighborhood (I am in City Center). Meeting Yisrael part of the way, I learned where we were going to dinner.
This is how I found myself with a group of 8 from a reform shul in San Francisco along with their Rabbi and another Reform Rabbi from Los Angeles, a writer from the US, an AgTech leader and his two children, both in the army, a young man finishing 2 years of study in Israel who is a graduate of the same school my children attend, a self described influencer leading a movement to empower Jews of color, all at the Shabbat table of Susan Silverman and Yosef Abramowitz. That was a heady experience to be sure. I met a ton of new people, managed to talk about my novel. The highlight was a tradition I want to bring home which was going around the table to introduce our selves prompted by angel cards. Mine was Abundance, or Shefa. That sounds about right. What an amazing experience to just fall into.
Typically I plan down to the detail. But this experience has been fluid and full of incredible moments I could not have planned for.
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For Shabbat I woke up and after some breakfast and a good lie-in I walked back down to Baka this time to have lunch with Yisrael, his children, including 2 home from the army, his ex-wife and 2 family friends and their son. This meal was predominately in Ivrit, and unable to use my google translate on Shabbat, I waited for intermittent translations. The conversation was of course about what had happened, and what may yet come. The question of whether it would be considered more important to rescue hostages (the Halachic answer being yes no matter the cost) or making sure 10/7 (or 7/10 as it is here) never happens again. Where the fault lay for the atrocities was also discussed and I learned so much from everyone’s frank conversation and input. Yisrael and I then walked back to city center where I am staying and met friends and more friends of friends. Afterwards, I walked back with some new friends to Aroma, near my hotel where they had a coffee and I listened to how it was for each Israeli at the table immediately after 10/7 and how they have been since. At some point someone thanked me for coming to volunteer which felt so tiny compared to what they have lived through and continue to face. I just said “you are welcome” but I had so many more feelings than I could put into words about it.
Afterwards I went back to my hostel, which is a whole experience I have never had before. The same young lady from Orlando was there and we chatted for 30 minutes or so about our decision to come here at this time, our families reactions and what it meant to us. Following that I bumped into the young Italian man that came to Jerusalem last June after living and working in Japan and has been staying at the hostel and helping run it. He davens at the Italian shul across the street and has felt moved to stay through everything. The first person being secular and the second religious, these were two very different conversations about how we came to be here and why we are here, but the parallels were not lost on me. Love of Israel, a passion to see that Israelis know we, each, are on their side as well as the general wonder and feeling of our soul being lifted just by being here - these were our common ground.
Following this I walked myself over to the Old City and was at the Kotel for havdalah. This was my 3rd trip here and this time I felt I was bringing something as much as getting something back. It is a powerful, holy place that has always been difficult for me to describe, but I feel everyone should experience it for themselves. It is manna, meaning that to me I get what I need which has been vastly different each time I have been there - even within the same trip.
Following this I stopped a grocery to eat and it was jammed with young people - maybe 9th grade - on a trip from Rockland, NY. They made me miss my own kids - here in Jerusalem with all that is going on and it was all about who could sneak some Celsius into their cart and how many bags of kosher Doritos they could gather in their arms. I walked up to the Paris Square where there is a tent dedicated to the hostages and their families nearby. I met some of my new friends and then we heard speeches from some of the loved ones of hostages and those that had been murdered including a young lady who dedicated a song to her cousin Noya, I am presuming Noya Dan. Using google translate I translated the speeches in real time and was able to follow most of it. The one sign I saw that truly took my breath away was:
קול אחיותי זועק אלי
My sister’s voice cries out to me.
This group, at least in part transitioned to a march and protest against the current government that moved together complete with drums, bullhorns and placards, to the presidents house. This is apparently something that the families and protesters against the government do every motzei Shabbat. At that point, no longer able to follow the Hebrew because the translator does not work well for chants, I walked back to the hostel and passed out in my clothing having walked 30,000 steps. At 3:30 am I woke up hungry and finished what I had purchased and the store and was then able to talk to Rebekah and my mother in law briefly at home before washing up and going back to bed. What a day.
Sunday, April 7, 2021
It is 6 months today. Six months since my father died and 6 months that innocent people have been in captivity. A half a year of hell, as they say around here. All over Israel there are signs demanding the release of hostages. On this Israelis seem to be unwaveringly unified. The country longs for the return of their loved ones, now. It is evident everywhere. Yellow ribbons attached to an elderly woman’s walker, yellow pins adorning the cropped top of a teenage in line for coffee ahead of me. The military and police do not wear anything like that, whether the yellow ribbon, the hostages necklace or any of that. But it is rare to see someone not in a uniform without some type of affiliated adornment.
Today I am going to Yad Vashem, spending some more time in Jerusalem before I head to Tel Aviv to meet my JNF group. It seems strange I am just at the beginning of this trip, I feel like I have been here forever.
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